Before I left Minneapolis for Kansas City, I asked three different people for directions. While the directions were all the same, they all had different ideas as for how long it would take -- one person said six hours, another said almost eight hours, and the third said it could take as long as ten hours. The drive lacked any defining quality -- mostly corn fields and wide open views -- and a severe thunderstorm forced me off the road on two different occasions. I arrived in Kansas City after only six hours on the road -- I was early.
I almost drove off the road when I saw the Harry S. Truman Sports Complex -- an expansive piece of land that is hidden from view until you drive around a corner on the highway. Kauffman Stadium, home of the Royals, is the first thing you see (it almost touches the highway) and Arrowhead Stadium, home of KC's NFL team, stands in the background. Both stadiums are open and you can see into each with Kauffman Stadium sporting an enormous KC logo on the back of their scoreboard (facing you as you drive up).
As you walk around the outside of Kauffman Stadium, it looks like most of the cookie cutter stadiums -- made of concrete, looping ramps to bring fans to their seats, and high fences to keep fans out of the complex until the designated time. But, when you get inside the stadium you can see it is one of the most beautiful in baseball. The field is grass, grown in Colorado and imported by the Royals prior to the 1995 season to replace the astroturf. The seats, which are in moderately good shape considering their age, stretch around the infield area (only to the foul poles) and extend up four levels. Newly remodeled sky boxes extend all the way around the stadium just underneath the top level, wide open concourses give fans easy access to the field, and escalators are available to help fans get to the upper deck seating areas. Not bad for a stadium celebrating its 25th anniversary this season.
It is the outfield area, however, that makes the design of Kauffman Stadium unique. Stretching around the outfield is a 332 foot "water spectacular" -- the largest privately owned fountain in the world. Throughout the game water shoots high into the air in a variety of sequences, often including colored lights. A 40 by 60 foot scoreboard stands in center field -- illuminated by more than 16,000 lights -- and a new state-of-the-art Jumbotron in left center field provides fans with real time action and instant replays. The retired numbers of the Royals are posted beneath the scoreboard, flags representing the Royals championships fly in left field, and tonight, the Royals added the number 42, in honor of Jackie Robinson, to the area beneath the Jumbotron.
The dugouts are wide open and comfortable. Both are equipped with large industrial fans to help keep the players and coaches cool on hot midwestern days. The bullpens, located in the corners of the two outfields are almost hidden from the fans as they extend deep into the back of the outfield. The Royals Hall of Fame, located on the main concourse, is full of Royals history including championship trophies and retired jerseys. And, there is a special Kids Zone under a large tent off to one side of the stadium that offers games and other challenges for younger fans.
When I walked onto the field for batting practice I was immediately dazed by the overwhelmingly uncomfortable heat and humidity. Rather than stand by the batting cage, I retreated to the Royals dugout to sit beneath one of the industrial fans usually reserved for players. I sat down next to the college age son of Royals pitching coach Bruce Kison. After determining who's son he was (he tried to convince me he was the son of one of the black coaches and me not knowing the names of the players well believed him -- to which he snapped, "no, do I look mixed") we spoke about the trip, the team, college and road trips (he was preparing to take one of his own -- a 17 hour drive back to his home in Bradenton, FL). When he left to join the team in the field, I watched several players tape their fingers and wrists in preparation for hitting, and walked out to the batting cage to watch the warm-ups.
Most of the Royals had taken early batting practice in the sweltering mid-day heat so there was very little time to talk to the players who were taking their abbreviated swings before retreating to the air-conditioned clubhouse. I re- introduced myself to Art Stewart, the Special Assistant to the General Manager, who was standing by the cage and talking to players. We had met a buffet table in Cleveland during the pre-game party for the All Star Game and he had invited me to come and visit him while I was in Kansas City. He remembered me and we joked briefly about the humidity (not much else to talk about when the team is in a funk). But, it wasn't until Jay Hinrichs, the Assistant General Manager, showed up that I really had anything to do.
The Royals Management was one of the most pleasant groups of individuals I have had the chance to deal with on this trip. When I notified the organization of my plans to travel to all the ballparks they were outstanding in their support and encouragement offering me press credentials, access to the field, and guarunteeing a meeting with someone in the front office. When I arrived at the park, they handed me one set of credentials, escorted me to the press box and answered all my questions.
While I was standing on the field, Jay Hinrichs, the Assistant General Manager, who had sent me an e-mail confirming our meeting, met me and brought me on a guided tour of the stadium. Joined by a father and son duo from Pittsburgh, Mr. Hinrichs showed me the clubhouse (where I met the video scouting team, hitting coaches, trainers, and a smattering of players including DH Chili Davis and backup catcher Mike Sweeney), the press box (where I was introduced to the Director of Media Relations Jay Fink), the front offices (where I was introduced to General Manager Spencer "Herk" Robinson), the concourses, underground hallways, and food areas. It was a refreshing tour for two reasons, first, he didn't have a slick answer for everything as some of the PR folks who I have spoken with have produced, and, as we walked, he went about his regular duties, talking to security folks about issues in the stadiums or team folks about supplies that needed replacing and equipment that needed repairs. He wasn't putting on a show but rather letting me tag along as he went about his pre-game rituals.
The highlight of the tour, and possibly the trip to date, came right near the start of the tour. Standing in the lobby outside of the visiting clubhouse, Mr. Hinrichs called over an older and significantly tanned (almost leathered) employee. I had seen him on the field without his shirt (svelte for his age) but hadn't realized who he was. As he got closer, I read his shirt -- G.P. Toma -- and tried to place the name. Then it hit me, he was George Toma -- "The God of Sod". Toma had laid the turf for every Superbowl game, the world cup, the olympics, and any other major sporting event you can think of. Believe it or not, he was one of my sports idols -- I turned a little red, gushed for a while about his accomplishments, and took a picture of him to capture the moment. It will take a lot to top that moment.
The remainder of the time, Mr. Hinrichs and I talked about a number of things including attendance (still down from the strike but up from last year), travel, the internet, inter-league play (he was obviously excited about the I-70 series vs. St. Louis), security, and others that have taken similar pilgrimages to mine. He showed me George Brett's office, provided me with media guides and information, and even game me a ticket to the game (directly behind home plate and close enough to touch the players). All in all, he was very honest, friendly, helpful, and it was a good way to spend the hour leading up to the game.
Since I had folks to sit with during the game, I didn't spend very much time in the press box. The fourth level of the stadium, which includes radio booths, conference rooms, luxury boxes, a club restaurant (for staff and media), and the press rooms is newly remodeled and very luxurious. New carpeting and shatter proof glass gives the area a warm feeling and the numerous conference rooms and storage rooms offer privacy for folks who need to make phone calls or have conversations that don't need to be heard by everyone. There is a room full of media guides and other information in case you need to find a statistic or other information about a team. On this day however, the room's greatest asset was its air-conditioning.
As for the occupants, after a ten game losing streak they were beginning to get a little punchy and synical. I was surrounded mostly by White Sox staff members, none of whom recognized me from my visit and introduction last weekend at Comiskey Park,but all who were unpleasantly grumpy. The locals were cracking jokes, throwing jabs, and stuffing their faces full of free popcorn while trying to come up with a new angle to describe the Royals downward slide. One reporter dictated game action into a recorder through a headset, one typed pitch by pitch updates into his laptop, and one even used a manual typewriter to produce his column. A quiet group in general, the only comment I remember all night came from one reporter who suggested the team call Bob Boone (the Royals former manager who was fired three days ago) and bring him back to get the team a win. Nobody laughed.
THE FOODWhen you think of Kansas City, the first thing that probably comes to mind is barbecue. Well, the stadium doesn't dissapoint you in that respect offering excellent barbecue and a whole host of other foods. There are hot dogs (very plump, tasty looking and popular), pizza, deli sandwiches, gilled hamburgers, chicken sandwiches, and nachos. For treats, there are ice cream sundaes, sno-ones, root beer floats, cotton candy, and margaritas (for those who produce proper identification). I had a wonderful smoked turkey sandwich with a combination of three of the four available barbecue sauces (excluding the KC masterpiece) and some exquisite baked beans. Many of the fans around me followed a similar path, although most got barbecue ribs or beef sandwiches. Others munched on hot dogs throughout the night.
As for the Pretzel, rather than having it be a part of the regular concession stands, Kauffman Stadium, the Royals brought in "Vinny's" special hot pretzel stand. The pretzel, which is much lighter and fluffier than any pretzel I have EVER encountered is heated in front of you on a scalding grille and then covered (if you so choose) in either melted cheese, cinnamon sugar, or salt. I opted for the plain pretzel, smothering it in spicy mustard, and found it to be delicious -- perhaps the best pretzel to date. Two (non-greasy) thumbs up.
Friday nights are special for the fans at Kauffman Stadium with the team organizing booths for players to sign autographs prior to the game. On this night, since Jackie Robinson's number was retired, several members of the Kansas City Monarchs (the KC Negro League Team on which Jackie Robinson played before joining the majors) were seated in the main outdoor plaza for nearly an hour to sign anything and everything for fans who lined up (free of charge). The fans showed their appreciation by showing up in larger than expected numbers -- somewhere close to 30,000 were on hand despite the uncomfortable heat and humidity of the evening. The first 20,000 fans received a certificate to redeem as they left for a Jackie Robinson photo-ball honoring his breaking of the major league color barrier.
I was sitting very close to the home plate area, behind the screen, so there was a very different crowd than one I would have found upstairs behind home plate. There were two different couples with young children, one had brought a baby to his first ballgame. There were a few White Sox fans who were very loud in their support, but mostly the Royals fans cheered for their players, shouted encouragement to the on-deck circle (identifying the players as if they had a personal relationship) and jeering the umpires loudly when close calls favored the opposition.
I was taken to the game by Myron Sildon, the father of Eric Sildon (who joined me for All Star Weekend in Cleveland) and his significant other (for lack of a better term) Elizabeth. Both are very knowledgeable of baseball, Mr. Sildon focusing more on the game aspect while Elizabeth focused more on the history and social changes in the game. Since Mr. Sildon's voice is not that strong anymore, Elizabeth served as an interpreter of sorts, and I spoke mostly with her -- ranging in topics from Royals past successes (they had tickets to the 1985 World Series) to the social order of baseball (they gave those same tickets to a neighbors gardener who she felt "truly deserved to be going to the ballgame in their place") and touching briefly on the various food options (she lamented the lack of cracker jacks in the stands and wondered if we would ever have to change the words to "Take Me Out To The Ballgame"). Great seats and great company, what more can you ask for.
As for the game, it started off as a slugfest with Frank Thomas launching a three run homerun to deep left field before Royals starting pitcher Tim Belcher could even record an out. But, over the next four innings the Royals homered three times (with the White Sox adding one more) and took the lead. But, the weakness of the Royals bullpen showed as they lost the lead eight and buried themselves giving up four runs in the ninth inning. The Royals tried desperately to get back in it, loading the bases in the eight with only one out, but a double play killed the rally. Some poor base running and sloppy pitching led the Royals to their 11th straight defeat -- the longest snide in team history -- and postponed for another day new manager Tony Muser's first career victory.
After the game, I tried to get a Jackie Robinson photo-ball but proved unable as I was not given a certificate when I entered (since I entered on a pass instead of a ticket). We found our two separate cars and amazingly ended up behind one another in the parking lot so I was able to follow Mr. Sildon to his apartment. A quick driving tour of the city in the morning and I was on my way to Denver. I hope I will make it to Kansas City again soon.
The "God of Sod", George Toma, and the father son duo from Pittsburgh.
The son of Royals pitching coach Bruce Kison.
Mr. Sildon and Elizabeth in our seats at Kauffman Stadium.
The ceremony during which the Royals retired Jackie Robinson's number. The view is
from the press box where I was standing during the festivities.
